Menswear has long been guided by certain rules - some timeless, some outdated, and some open to interpretation. At Arthur’s, we often find ourselves discussing these with our clients - whether it’s helping a groom refine his wedding attire, advising a professional on the nuances of business dress codes, or guiding a gentleman in crafting a wardrobe that balances classic elegance with modern sensibility. These conversations go beyond just style; they’re about understanding how clothing should fit, function, and enhance confidence in every setting. Some rules are non-negotiable, others have evolved, and some are best left in the past. Here are ten key rules, along with our take on whether they should be followed, bent, or left behind.
1. The Jacket Sleeve Should Show a Bit of Shirt Cuff (Follow)
A hint of shirt cuff—about ¼ to ½ inch—peeking from your jacket sleeve creates a polished, intentional look. This rule remains as relevant today as ever, ensuring balance and proportion in your outfit.
2. Never Button the Bottom Button of Your Jacket (Follow)
3. Avoid Wearing Suit Jackets or Pants as Separates (Follow)
Using a suit jacket as a sports coat or suit pants as odd trousers often looks out of place and accelerates wear on one piece, shortening the life of the suit. Instead, choose standalone jackets or trousers designed for versatility.
4. Black and Navy Should Never Be Worn Together (Ignore)
Once considered a fashion faux pas, the black-and-navy combination is now a modern, sophisticated pairing when done right. The key is contrast—opt for a deep navy with a crisp black for intentional styling.
5. No Brown in Town (Outdated)
This old British rule dictated that brown shoes were for the countryside, while black was for the city. Today, brown dress shoes are as versatile as black, offering warmth and depth to an outfit.
6. Socks Should Always Match Your Trousers (Bend)
Matching socks to trousers creates a seamless leg line, but a subtle contrast—like deep burgundy or textured grey—can add personality while maintaining elegance.
7. Single-Breasted Jackets Are More Versatile Than Double-Breasted (Bend)
While single-breasted suits are a safe choice, a well-tailored double-breasted jacket can be just as versatile. Modern cuts make them sleeker and less rigid than their older counterparts.
8. A Tie Should Reach the Belt Buckle (Follow)
A tie that is too short or too long throws off proportions. The tip should ideally graze the top of your belt buckle, maintaining balance in your overall look.
9. Your Pocket Square Shouldn’t Match Your Tie Exactly (Follow)
A pocket square should complement your tie, not duplicate it. Mixing textures and subtle variations in color adds sophistication and depth to your outfit.
10. Dress Codes Are Set in Stone (Ignore)
While formal occasions call for proper attire, menswear today allows for more personal expression. The key is understanding the setting - sometimes, breaking the rules with confidence makes the biggest statement.
At the end of the day, your wardrobe should reflect your lifestyle, confidence, and personal taste. If you're unsure which rules to follow or break, we’re here to guide you. Book an appointment with us, and let’s craft a wardrobe that feels distinctly yours.
